Kitchen Call: Very varied vegetables

My kids, always dedicated carnivores, decided to put more vegetables in their diets. While not embracing vegetarianism, they decided to research vegetarian cookbooks and websites.

These resources turned up respectable offerings, but I decided to look for more seasonal inspiration. At local farm stands, I grabbed up some of those little recipe cards. I e-mailed culinary colleagues and pored over online restaurant menus for hints of ingredients. Then it was time to combine research and imagination.

Asparagus is still abundantly available. Inspired by a San Francisco menu, I paired it with potatoes, boosting the flavor with handfuls of fresh herbs and some Dijon mustard. Fortunately this spring’s small pot of chives, sheltered in a sunny spot by the back stairs, developed into a massive plant that responds to cutting with more growth. The mélange turned out to be satisfying, convenient and equally delicious warm or at room temperature, kind of a healthier version of picnic potato salad.

Then I took a long look back in time. My grandfather was an ace mushroom forager. He loved to brag that he never fed anyone a bad mushroom. He never gave up his secrets. Not the places he found them, nor how he sorted out the good from the bad.

Once, I caught him dropping a quarter into a skillet of mushrooms deliciously sizzling in olive oil, parsley, and garlic. Swearing me to secrecy, he told me that if the quarter turned black in the cooking, then the mushrooms were poisonous. My parents, wary of these methods, never sampled or allowed their children a taste of what was gathered in the mists of early dawn.

So when I discovered that mushrooms have run wild in the supermarket I decided to make a dish that would span the generations. I drew together my kids’ wish for vegetables, my love of hash, and my grandfather’s hobby. I picked up two meaty portobellos and one or two other kinds as well as a package of thickly cut large white mushrooms. The results were delicious, especially when I added Yukon gold potatoes, red peppers and some chopped scallions for zip. A hint of bacon is not detrimental to the recipe, but tofurkey bacon makes a decent replacement.

ASPARAGUS & FINGERLINGS
Makes 6 servings

You can substitute a couple of scallions for the shallot. Also, Yukon gold potatoes are perfectly acceptable substitute when fingerling potatoes are too expensive or not available. If the asparagus is thick, snap the stalks where they naturally bend, and cut them in half lengthwise before following the recipe.

1 shallot, peeled
1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves
2 tablespoons fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon fresh basil leaves
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
2 pounds fingerling potatoes
1 pound asparagus, stalked trimmed and cut into thirds
Salt, pepper, to taste

1. Finely chop the shallots and herbs together. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in the mustard and vinegar. Slowly blend in 2 tablespoons olive oil until the mixture emulsifies.

2. Heat potatoes in a pot with cold water to cover until they just reach a boil. Reduce heat to medium-high, cooking gently for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and drain. While still warm, slice but do not peel them.

3. While potatoes cook, heat remaining oil in a skillet on medium-high heat. Add asparagus, stir-frying for about 4 minutes. Remove from heat; add asparagus and warm potatoes to bowl with the herb mixture, tossing gently, tasting and seasoning with salt, pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

‘WILD’ MUSHROOM HASH
Makes 6 to 8 servings

Top this with fried or poached eggs for the complete experience.

5 slices lean bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tablespoon canola oil, if needed
1 large red bell pepper, cut into a 1/2-inch dice
2 large Portobello mushroom caps, scraped of gills, and cut into 1-1/2-inch dice
2 to 3 any type mushrooms
8 ounce package sliced white mushrooms
2 scallions, white part only, thinly sliced crosswise
4-5 cooked Yukon gold potatoes, cut in 1-inch dice
2 cups arugula or baby spinach
1/2 cup fat-free half-and-half
salt, pepper
2 slices American cheese, torn in squares
handful of snipped chives

1. Saute bacon so that the fat coats the bottom of the skillet. Add canola oil if the pan is too dry as the recipe calls for lean bacon. Add the bell peppers, and cook until softened.

2. Add mushrooms, and continue cooking until they give up all their juices. Add potatoes and cook until lightly browned. Add arugula or spinach. Pour in the half and half, raise the heat slightly and cook until mixture sticks together and is creamy.

3. Scatter the cheese squares over the top. Cover the pan and turn off the heat. The hash is ready when the cheese has melted into the mixture. Season with salt, pepper and scatter chives over the top before serving.

North Shore Sunday contributor Linda Bassett is the author of “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai: Neighborhood Cooking North of Boston.” Reach her by e-mail at KitchenCall@aol.com.